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Question:

My pool water is cloudy and I can’t clear it up. What could be causing this?

Answer:

Several things could be the cause. First, check to make sure that the pH is within proper range. If the pH is within range, it could be that you have a dirty filter and it needs to be cleaned. If you have a sand filter, this doesn’t necessarily mean to replace the sand, but to use a filter cleaner that will remove both organic materials and minerals. Check to make sure the sanitizer in the pool is in proper range. If it is not, raise the level. Another cause could be the amount of calcium in the water. If too much calcium is present, it can become cloudy. Lastly, particles too small to be easily filtered out could be causing the cloudiness. A clarifier can be used in order to make these particles filterable.

Question:

Should I use a water clarifier in my pool?

Answer:

Yes. A clarifier is designed as an aid to the efficient operation of the filter by coagulating most materials, which cause cloudy and hazy water, into larger particles that are removed by the filter. Because the presence of these materials increases the disinfectant demand, the use of a water clarifier decreases pool maintenance costs.

Question:

Why is filtration important to the quality of swimming pool water?

Answer:

Filtration is the mechanical system for removing visible matter from the water. The filter medium is designed to remove hair, dirt, minute skin flakes, metal or calcium precipitates and other visible debris that would otherwise cause the water to be hazy and cloudy.

Question:

How do I know when it’s time to clean my pool filter?

Answer:

Normal, periodic rinsing or backwashing will remove most of the dirt from a basically clean filter. However, over a period of time, grease, oils and scale can attack and build up on the elements. When this occurs, you will see build up on the removable elements,increased filter pressure, reduced circulation and water that does not want to clear up.

Question:

What does “Vacuum to Waste” mean?

Answer:

When you “Vacuum to Waste” you are pumping the debris you vacuum out of the pool and sending the water to the waste line, and not through the pool filter. This method removes a large amount of water from the pool in a short time so be sure the pool is full before you begin. This method is used for large amounts of debris and dirt. This method will only work for circulation systems that use a 6-position filter valve. If you have an older “Push-Pull” style filter valve you must vacuum through the pool filter. Be sure to monitor the location where the waste line is connected to the sewer system in your home, just in case the sewer line cannot handle the large amount of water and overflows.

Question:

I added algaecide to my pool, but the algae didn’t go away. What did I do wrong?

Answer:

First, algecide will not remove the algae, only kill it. You must add the algaecide according to the directions. If you don’t add the correct dosage amount, it won’t kill any of the algae. However, be aware that using the entire bottle of algaecide is also ineffective. Not only will you spend additional money, large doses can also lead to staining and foaming in your pool. In addition to properly dosing your water, it is also recommended that the algaecide be added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results. Algae are plants and grow in the presence of sunlight. Adding algaecide during algae’s best growth time will increase intake of the algaecide and make it more effective. If black algae is present, brushing the algae at least once daily will also help expedite algae removal. Brushing the dead cells away makes the living algae more vulnerable to the algaecide.

Question:

Why do I need to shock my pool?

Answer:

Pool water composition always includes some undesirable elements that actually contaminate the water and reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Material such as hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics, perspiration and other organic material react to combine with the chlorine in the water to form “combined chlorine”.  Once “combined chlorine” forms, it acts as a very poor disinfectant, contributing to eye and skin irritations and the forming of unpleasant chlorine odor. Pools with this problem are often inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine. Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy combined chlorine compounds and restore the chlorine sanitizer to “free chlorine” efficiency. A pool can be shock treated by adding large doses of chlorine, commonly referred to as superchlorination, or by adding a non-chlorine shock.

Question:

My pool has a very strong chlorine odor. Is there too much chlorine in my pool?

Answer:

No, you don’t have enough “free chlorine” in your pool. Most pools contain both good chlorine and bad chlorine. The good chlorine is called free chlorine and is capable of killing germs. Bad chlorine, on the other hand, is called “combined chlorine” and is a poor germ killer. Too much combined chlorine in your pool causes the strong chlorine odor. When the combined chlorine level reaches 0.2 ppm or more, it is time to shock your water. Shocking will eliminate the odor.

Question:

When I shock my pool, should I use chlorine or non-chlorine shock?

Answer:

Both treatments accomplish the goal of destroying and removing bather waste and preventing the formation of combined chlorine. Superchlorination, the addition of large amounts of chlorine, has some drawbacks. Because it requires large amounts of chlorine, it can damage liners and swimsuits and upset water balance. Additionally, it is difficult to determine proper dosage amounts and it requires swimmers to wait until the level of chlorine drops, often a day or more, until they can swim. Non-chlorine shock, on the other hand, does not require excessive chlorine use and allows swimming almost immediately after application, does not harm liners, has easily determined dosage rates and does not upset water balance.

Question:

Do I need to add a sanitizer regularly?

Answer:

Yes, an E.P.A. registered sanitizer should be added and maintained at proper levels at all times. Non-chlorine shock treatments contain no chlorine, therefore you must make regular additions of sanitizer to ensure that you are disinfecting the water.

Question:

I have an outdoor pool and I am told that the chlorine needs to be stabilized. Why?

Answer:

The chlorine in a pool can be broken down by ultra violet light from the sun. If stabilizer, also called conditioner, is not present, the chlorine level will dissipate very rapidly over the course of the day. It is recommended that you add stabilizer to the pool to prevent this chlorine break down. The stabilizer level should be between 30-50 ppm to properly stabilize the pool. The use of a stabilizer will reduce your overall chlorine consumption and save you money. However, many of the products available at your retailer are stabilized chlorine.

Question:

What causes the “ring” around my pool’s water line?

Answer:

The accumulation of oils and dirt from bathers is the biggest cause. Using a tile cleaner specifically designed for pools can clean it off. Household cleaners do not contain the needed balance of both oil/grease cutters and scale dissolving ingredients. In fact, these cleaners can actually dull a tile line due to abrasives or cause unsightly foaming. Even worse, they may react with the sanitizer, such as chlorine, in your pool. Another helpful hint would be to regularly use an enzyme based product in your pool. These biodegradable products will control grease and oil before it builds up.

Question:

Following chemical treatment, how long do I have to wait before I use my pool?

Answer:

With the exception of superchlorinating (which requires waiting until the chlorine level drops to recommended levels), you can generally use your pool when the chemical is dispersed throughout the pool. Fifteen minutes to one hour is a good rule of thumb.

Question:

I have heard of people talking about pink algae. What is that and how do I treat for it?

Answer:

Please contact the store for information on this issue.

Question:

What are enzyme based cleaners and how do they work?

Answer:

Basically, enzymes are substances that speed up chemical reactions. In the case of enzyme based cleaners, they are designed to speed up the process of breaking down oils, proteins, etc. that may be in your pool. Enzymes will break up very large particles into smaller ones that can be handled more easily by your sanitizer. Regular use of an enzyme will help reduce scum line buildup and free up your sanitizer for the work it was intended to do-sanitizing.

Question:

Should I treat my spa water the same way as I treat my pool water?

Answer:

Although the pH and total alkalinity measurements are the same, the sanitizer level (bromine or chlorine) should be kept between 3-5 ppm. In a spa, the filter requires more frequent cleanings. In addition, the water will require more frequent care to assure pH and sanitizer levels are correct.

Question:

My cartridge filter is dirty, and I was told to just put it in my dishwasher to clean it. Is this the best way?

Answer:

The dishwasher will clean out the larger debris, but can also damage the fabric on the filter. The best way to clean your filter is to use a filter cleaner that contains both acids and detergents and is designed specifically for cartridge cleaning. This will ensure that all oils, lotions and minerals will be removed from the filter. Cleaning properly increases the longevity of the cartridge. Check your cartridge filter once a month.

Question:

I just refilled my spa and I’m having problems balancing my water. The pH is low and the total alkalinity is high. What can I do to fix it?

Answer:

When the pH and the total alkalinity are opposite of one another, always fix the low number first. In this case, add a pH increaser until the pH is within a normal range. Then, adjust the total alkalinity by adding a pH level reducer.

Question:

My spa has odd-shaped white chips on the bottom after I shut it off! Where’s this stuff coming from?

Answer:

The white chips are calcium deposits (scale which forms on the heater elements) which are knocked off when the blowers and jets are on. This problem can be prevented by using a sequestering agent on a weekly basis to prevent calcium in the water from forming deposits.

Question:

I am using a non-chlorine shock in my spa. Is it the same product for both pools and spas?

Answer:

Non-chlorine shock for pools is not buffered and may affect the overall water chemical balance of the spa water. It is best that you use a non-chlorine shock designed specifically for spas. This will help reduce the need for extra chemical treatment to keep pH in the proper range.

Question:

My spa is foaming. Why?

Answer:

There are several reasons that a spa foams. A common cause is the rapidly moving water combined with bathers bringing in soaps and detergents on their bodies and bathing suits. Showering before entering the spa helps prevent this problem. If excess detergents are the cause of the foam, using a defoamer will reduce the amount of foaming. Another cause of foaming is soft water. This means that the calcium level in the water is low. This can be corrected by raising the calcium level to 150-400 ppm. Organic waste build up can also cause foaming. By shocking the spa on a regular basis, the wastes are oxidized out of the water and foaming is reduced.

Question:

My dealer offers both chlorine and bromine as sanitizers. Which should I use?

Answer:

Overall, bromine tends to be more popular among spa owners. Bromine is offered in both a tablet form and as a two-part system. Unlike chlorine, bromine is effective over a wider pH range, doesn’t irritate your eyes or bleach bathing suits. Additionally, bromine is effective in its combined form, doesn’t smell and is an effective sanitizer. Many spa owners however, elect to sanitize with chlorine. It is traditionally used in pools, and it is an effective sanitizer and oxidizer. Granular chlorine is the easiest form to use and will keep the water sparkling clean!

Question:

How often do I really need to shock my spa water?

Answer:

How often you shock spa water depends on the sanitizer used and the bather load. If you are using the 2-part bromine sanitizing system it is recommended that you shock each time you finish using your spa. If you are using chlorine or bromine tablets, it is recommended that you shock at least one time per week. It may be necessary to shock more often if the bather load is heavy or the water is cloudy.

Question:

I have an ozonator on my hot tub. Do I need to use a sanitizer with it?

Answer:

Yes. Even though ozone is an effective oxidizer and will even destroy microorganisms directly exposed to the ozone, the ozone is relatively short lived in your hot tub water. As such the ozone is not present in the water for a sufficient length of time to assure adequate sanitation of the entire tub and the surfaces and plumbing. The use of an ozonator will reduce your consumption of chlorine or bromine as it makes it easier to maintain proper levels of these in the water it does not eliminate their usefulness.

Question:

Do I need to maintain a calcium hardness level in my spa?

Answer:

Absolutely. Water that is low in calcium hardness can be corrosive to other metal parts in your spa, particularly your heater. We recommend maintaining a calcium hardness level of 150 – 400 ppm.